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Budget and prices

Cost per wear: what a watch or a ring actually costs you a year

The same $600 watch costs $0.77 or $5.00 a wear depending only on how often you wear it. The full arithmetic, with running costs, resale and import duty.

Jeweller's window packed with ornate yellow gold necklaces, wide bangles, earrings and pendants on white stands
A bridal gold window display, where heavy carved bangles and dragon and phoenix necklaces are sold by weight.Photo: Nadihauming Hong · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons · Open source page

Price is the number on the tag and cost per wear is the number you live with. They diverge fast, because the denominator — how many times the thing is actually worn — varies by a factor of fifteen between someone who wears a watch daily and someone who wears it to weddings.

This guide works through four terms in order: the purchase divided by wears, the running costs that recur whether you wear it or not, the resale figure that comes off the end, and the import charges that now apply to low-value parcels from abroad. Every price below is a stated example with the division written out; no live price feed is connected to this site.

The division that decides it

Start with wears over the period you expect to keep the piece. Over 5 years, twice a month is 120 wears, once a week is 260, three days a week is 780 and daily is 1,825. Divide the purchase price by that figure and you have the part of each wear that the purchase itself accounts for.

On a $600 watch, three days a week over 5 years is about $0.77 a wear, because 600 divided by 780 is 0.769. The same watch worn twice a month over the same 5 years is $5.00 a wear exactly, because 600 divided by 120 is 5. Nothing about the watch changed. The only variable was the drawer.

That is why the useful question before a purchase is not whether a piece is worth its price but how many times it will be worn. A $2,000 watch worn daily for 5 years is about $1.10 a wear, cheaper per wear than a $200 watch worn twice a month at $1.67. Put your own two figures into the cost-per-wear calculator on this site and the comparison takes seconds.

Jeweller's window packed with ornate yellow gold necklaces, wide bangles, earrings and pendants on white stands
A bridal gold window display, where heavy carved bangles and dragon and phoenix necklaces are sold by weight.Photo: Nadihauming Hong · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons · Open source page
Purchase price divided by wears over 5 years (example prices; the arithmetic is price divided by wears)
Purchase priceTwice a month (120 wears)Once a week (260)Three days a week (780)Daily (1,825)
$200$1.67$0.77$0.26$0.11
$600$5.00$2.31$0.77$0.33
$2,000$16.67$7.69$2.56$1.10

Wear counts: 24 x 5 = 120, 52 x 5 = 260, 156 x 5 = 780 and 365 x 5 = 1,825. No running costs and no resale are included in this table; both are added in the sections below.

Running costs recur whether you wear it or not

A quartz watch on the example figures used across this site costs about $5 a year in batteries, taking a $15 battery fitted every 3 years. A leather strap replaced every 2 years at $40 is $20 a year. Together that is $25 a year, and at 156 wears a year — three days a week — it adds about $0.16 to each wear, because 25 divided by 156 is 0.160.

A mechanical watch replaces the battery line with a service line. On an assumed 7-year interval and an example $450 service, that is about $64 a year, and with the same $20 strap line the total is $84 a year. At 156 wears that is about $0.54 a wear. Added to the $0.77 of purchase from the table above, a $600 mechanical watch worn three days a week costs about $1.31 every time it goes on.

Rings have a quieter version of the same line. Claw re-tipping, a stone check and a polish at an example $90 every 4 years is about $23 a year; a ring worn daily at 365 wears a year carries that for about $0.06 a wear. The consumable-interval idea is identical to a watch service: an interval multiplied by a unit price, divided by the wears in the same period.

Running costs per year and per wear at 156 wears a year, on the example figures stated in this section
LineExample interval and pricePer yearPer wear at 156 wears a year
Quartz battery$15 every 3 yearsabout $5about $0.03
Leather strap$40 every 2 years$20about $0.13
Mechanical service$450 every 7 yearsabout $64about $0.41
Ring claw check and polish$90 every 4 yearsabout $23about $0.15

Each per-wear cell is the yearly figure divided by 156. The intervals and prices are assumptions written out so the division can be checked, not quotations from any workshop. Substitute the service price the manufacturer publishes for the model you are buying.

Resale is the other half of the number

If the piece will be sold rather than kept, the figure that matters is net cost, not purchase price. A $600 watch sold for $250 after 5 years has cost $350 to own. Over 780 wears that is about $0.45 a wear instead of $0.77 — a reduction of roughly 42%, because 0.77 minus 0.45 divided by 0.77 is 0.416.

Resale is also the part of this arithmetic where it is easiest to be misled. This site publishes no resale figures, no auction results and no price index, because it has no price feed and has not tracked any market. The resale-value calculator takes a figure you supply, which should come from completed sales you have actually looked at rather than from asking prices.

What is reasonable to say in general is structural: a piece with a serviceable movement, available parts and a mark that matches its description has a market; a piece whose description is missing a required karat figure or whose movement has no parts supply usually has a scrap value and nothing above it. Those are conditions you can check before buying, which is more than can be said for a forecast.

Three-storey half-timbered house with red tiled roof, shutters and a brick and iron street fence
An early twentieth-century town house photographed from the street, with no connection to watches or jewellery.Photo: Barochat · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons · Open source page
  • Net cost is purchase minus resale, so a $600 watch sold at $250 has cost $350 over 5 years
  • That is about $0.45 a wear at 780 wears, against $0.77 if it is never sold
  • Use completed sales rather than asking prices when you put a resale figure into the calculator
  • A missing karat designation or an unobtainable movement part is what removes a resale market, not age

Buying from abroad is no longer duty-free below $800

The de minimis administrative exemption that let shipments valued at $800 or less enter the United States free of duty has been suspended. U.S. Customs and Border Protection's own e-commerce guidance states that the suspension applies to merchandise valued at $800 or less arriving by all modes, including the international postal network, unless specifically excepted, and that all applicable duties, taxes, fees and charges must be paid on those shipments based on their tariff classification, country of origin and dutiable value.

For a watch or a ring ordered from a seller overseas, that changes the landed cost rather than the shelf price. The duty is assessed on the dutiable value, so a $600 watch no longer arrives at $600 plus shipping; it arrives at $600 plus shipping plus whatever its classification carries, plus any broker or handling charge the carrier adds. The landed-cost calculator on this site takes those as separate inputs for exactly this reason.

The entry route also depends on value. CBP's guidance describes informal entry as applying to shipments valued at $2,500 or less where eligible, with formal entry required above that or where quotas or antidumping and countervailing duties apply. A single ring over that threshold is therefore a different paperwork problem from a single ring under it, and the difference lands on the buyer as a fee rather than as a duty.

Putting the four terms together

On the example figures used throughout this guide, a $600 mechanical watch worn three days a week for 5 years costs about $0.77 a wear in purchase and about $0.54 a wear in running costs: roughly $1.31 every time it is worn, or about $204 a year. If it is sold for $250 at the end, the purchase term falls to about $0.45 and the all-in figure to about $0.99 a wear.

For scale, the Bureau of Labor Statistics reported average annual expenditures of $81,905 per consumer unit in 2025, a 4.3-percent increase on 2024. A $600 purchase is about 0.7% of that, and the $204 a year of purchase plus running cost is about 0.25%. Those shares are the honest way to decide whether a piece is affordable, and they are a different question from whether it is good value per wear.

Prices also move underneath any figure you write down. The Consumer Price Index for all items rose 3.7% over the 12 months to September 2026 on a not-seasonally-adjusted basis, so a quote you noted a year ago is not today's quote. Re-run the division with current figures before committing, rather than trusting a number from a previous visit.

Gold-tone dress watch on a bracelet, silver guilloche dial with Roman numerals, power reserve arc and date window
A power reserve arc and curved date window show how much a dress dial can carry without looking busy.Photo: Joe Haupt from USA · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons · Open source page

Before you buy

  • Write down how many times a year the piece will realistically be worn before looking at any price
  • Divide the price by wears over the years you expect to keep it, then compare models on that figure
  • Add the running-cost line: battery or service, strap, and any annual insurance premium
  • Find the manufacturer's published service price and interval rather than using the example in this guide
  • If buying from abroad, treat duty, shipping and handling as three separate inputs to landed cost
  • Check whether the shipment falls above or below the $2,500 informal entry threshold
  • Use completed sales, not asking prices, for any resale figure you put into the calculator

Questions readers ask

How many wears should I assume if I have no idea?
Use the lower of two honest guesses, because the error is asymmetric: overestimating wears makes an expensive piece look cheap. Over 5 years, twice a month is 120 wears, once a week is 260 and three days a week is 780. If you are choosing between two of those, run the division for both and look at how far apart the answers are before deciding.
Should insurance go into cost per wear?
Yes, in the same column as servicing, because it recurs whether the piece is worn or not. Add the annual premium attributable to the item to the running-cost line and divide by wears in that year. On the 156-wear example used here, every $15 of annual premium adds about $0.10 to each wear.
Does buying secondhand change the arithmetic?
It changes the purchase term and usually shortens the gap to the next service. A secondhand mechanical watch of unknown service history should be budgeted as if a service is due now, which on the $450 example moves that cost from year seven to year one. The division itself is unchanged: price plus imminent service, divided by expected wears.
Is import duty charged on a gift sent from abroad?
CBP's e-commerce guidance defines a bona fide gift as something given outright without compensation, and excludes items acquired by purchase or given as part of a promotional transaction. Because the de minimis exemption is suspended for shipments valued at $800 or less arriving by all modes, a parcel that is not a bona fide gift is dutiable on its classification and value.
Why does this site not publish resale values?
Because it has no price feed and has tracked no market, so any figure it printed would be invented. The resale-value calculator takes a number you supply from completed sales you have examined. That keeps the arithmetic honest and keeps the judgement with the person who can actually see the market for a specific reference.

Sources

  1. U.S. Customs and Border Protection — E-Commerce Frequently Asked Questions (suspension of the de minimis exemption for shipments valued at $800 or less; informal entry at $2,500 or less) — checked 2026-11-03
  2. U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics — Consumer Expenditure Surveys (average annual expenditures of $81,905 per consumer unit in 2025, up 4.3 percent on 2024) — checked 2026-11-03
  3. U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics — Consumer Price Index home page (all items up 3.7 percent over the 12 months to September 2026, not seasonally adjusted) — checked 2026-11-03

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